The Curators’ Quaderno - Lola Costa and Il Palmerino
A Painter’s Florentine Garden: Lola Costa and Il Palmerino. Il Palmerino is the last house in Florence, before Fiesole. Now a cultural association for resident artists, it was once home to English painter Lola Costa, and English writer Vernon Lee. In the early-twentieth century, Vernon Lee held her literary salons at Il Palmerino, and Lola Costa painted there with her artist husband Federigo Angeli. Costa fought to save the property and villa, which continues to be a working Tuscan estate and centre specialized in women’s history. The Curators’ Quaderno is a collection of notebook-style publications, conceived by Calliope Arts, in collaboration with The Florentine and Restoration Conversations, to raise awareness of women’s contributions to the fields of art, science and culture.
A Painter’s Florentine Garden: Lola Costa and Il Palmerino. Il Palmerino is the last house in Florence, before Fiesole. Now a cultural association for resident artists, it was once home to English painter Lola Costa, and English writer Vernon Lee. In the early-twentieth century, Vernon Lee held her literary salons at Il Palmerino, and Lola Costa painted there with her artist husband Federigo Angeli. Costa fought to save the property and villa, which continues to be a working Tuscan estate and centre specialized in women’s history.
The Curators’ Quaderno is a collection of notebook-style publications, conceived by Calliope Arts, in collaboration with The Florentine and Restoration Conversations, to raise awareness of women’s contributions to the fields of art, science and culture.
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the
curators’
quaderno
an exhibition in the making
A Painter’s Florentine Garden:
LOLA COSTA
AND IL PALMERINO
the
curators’
quaderno
A Painter’s Florentine Garden:
Lola Costa and Il Palmerino
Created as part of the project
“A Florentine Garden: Early Women Ex-pats and Artists of Today”
Project organisers
Il Palmerino Cultural Association
Calliope Arts Foundation
in collaboration with The British Institute of Florence
Printed for the exhibition
“Return Home, Lola Costa at Il Palmerino”
curated by Federica Parretti
Florence, June – September 2024
colophon
This exhibition was created as part of “Estate Fiorentina 2024”
an initiative proposed within the City of Florence’s Operational Plan
Exhibition and publication sponsors
Calliope Arts Foundation
Publisher The Florentine Press
Media partner The Florentine
tcq series editor Linda Falcone
Book design Marco Badiani
Book layout
Leo Cardini
With texts by Giuliano Angeli, Lola Costa, Linda Falcone, Vernon Lee,
Margie MacKinnon, Federica Parretti, Luca Scarlini and Claudia Tobin
Printer Cartografica Toscana
ISBN 978-88-97696-31-5
2024 B’Gruppo Srl, Prato
First Edition: June 2024
Series: The Curators’ Quaderno
© Calliope Arts Foundation
All rights reserved
Printed in Florence, Italy
“At all times and seasons
and in all weathers, it
pleases me to walk here;
disquietude could find no
finer antidote, believe me,
than the green confines
of this narrow pleasaunce
with its garden god,
dumbly eloquent of happy
patience and the spirit of
ancient peace.”
Vernon Lee
“It seems strange to speak of my
mother at Il Palmerino, when, for so
many years she was Il Palmerino in
its very essence. For almost seventy
years, after convincing her father
Gimo to invest in it, covering most of
the property’s cost as his wedding
gift, she was the soul and guardian
numen of Il Palmerino, which she
managed to defend and maintain,
unfortunately much too prematurely
on her own, against all adversities.”
Giuliano Angeli
on Lola Costa
“For late nineteenth- and early
twentieth-century women, through
times of personal and national
crises, gardens became places
of sanctuary and experiment,
where ideas about creativity
and domesticity, nature and
relationships could be uprooted
and redefined. Gardens fuelled
literary and artistic creativity for
women in Vernon Lee’s circle, from
Edith Wharton to Lady Ottoline
Morrell to Lee herself. The Italian
Garden became a significant point
of reference, and often romantic
versions of Italy were recreated in
an English setting. After visiting
Lee’s home at Villa Il Palmerino
in Florence and the surrounding
palazzo gardens, Ottoline Morrell
was inspired to buy Italian statues
to line the pool at her garden at
Garsington in Oxfordshire. Her
desire was ‘to make Garsington more
Italian’. In looking to these women’s
gardens, we learn much about their
social, creative, and political lives as
well as their horticultural interests.”
Claudia Tobin
Curator of ‘Gardening Bohemia’ at
London’s Garden Museum
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An on-going
connection
Return home
Calliope Arts Foundation is based in London
but carries out most of its activities in
Florence. We are interested in the historic ties
between these two centres of art and culture,
and the relationships – especially between
female protagonists – that have led to cultural
exchanges for close to two centuries.
4
The British Institute of Florence is a natural
partner for us in this endeavour. One of
Calliope’s first projects was to support the BIF’s
development of ‘A Century of Women Artists’, a
course focussing on the local and ex-pat women
who forged a century of change in Florence
from the unification of Italy to the suffrage
movement and the foundations of feminism.
Many of the artists, writers and social activists
covered in that course have connections with,
or were visitors to, the villa at Il Palmerino.
Women such as Iris Origo, Janet Ross, Mary
Berenson and Vernon Lee, a former owner of
the villa whose archive can now be found in
the BIF’s Library. In the past, Villa Il Palmerino
has hosted exhibitions of the art of Elisabeth
Chaplin, Lea Colliva and others, including Lola
Costa, whose memory is now honoured, on
the 20th anniversary of her death, with the
‘Return Home’ exhibition and grants for two
contemporary artists for residencies at the
villa. Another part of this project, the gifting
of Lola’s archive to the BIF as an ‘annex’ to
that of Vernon Lee, will preserve the legacy
of these two Anglo-Florentine women.
As this Curators’ Quaderno illustrates, the art
and poetry of Lola Costa are infused with the
spirit of Il Palmerino and its garden, which
continues to foster connections between
the past and the present, and between the
English and Italian communities of Florence.
Margie MacKinnon
Calliope Arts Foundation
co-founder and president
what is
tcq
The Curators’
Quaderno is a
collection of
notebook-style
publications,
conceived by Calliope
Arts, in collaboration
with The Florentine
Press, to raise
awareness of women’s
contributions to the
fields of art, science
and culture.
the
curators’
quaderno
notes
6
“It is not uncommon for women’s
achievements to be lost to history,
yet in Vernon Lee’s case, the veil
of forgetfulness was, more than
anything, a fall from grace. Lola
and Federigo came to inspect the
house and property the spring
Vernon Lee died, and though the
rooms lay stripped and empty, her
presence still lingered, they said
– an impression that remains true
at Il Palmerino today. The couple
found nothing in the way of the
author’s personal property – barring
a single white parasol, and this
delicate turn-of-the-century relic
speaks volumes, for a parasol is not
an umbrella.
While Lee may have needed to
shade herself from the sun during
the brilliant first half of her
Il Palmerino existence, a parasol
could not, and did not, save her
from the storms of a new century
– that rained down bullets. Vernon
Lee’s declared pacifism and the
controversial publication of the
anti-war satire The Ballet of the
Nations, caused her popularity to
plummet, from 1915 onwards, and
as the new century progressed,
what fame could a liberal woman of
“A word of warning
about Vernon Lee
because she is as
dangerous and
uncanny, as she is
intelligent, which is
saying a great deal.
Her vigor and sweep
are most rare and
her talk superior
altogether. She is
faraway the most able
mind in Florence.”
Henry James
the
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great eloquence and ‘questionable lifestyle’ have,
if not notoriety, as Mussolini forced his way into
Rome in 1922?
notes
Lola moved her family into Lee’s former kingdom
in 1935 – arriving just as Lee had, some forty years
before, when the weather was fine. The European
powers were busy, preparing for a second round
of global warfare, while the Angeli-Costa family
settled into their oasis of art production. Also an
English ex-pat and writer, Lola was fascinated by
Lee’s experience, and she began following leads.
Lola kept a box with memorabilia from Vernon
Lee’s life, with clippings, books and her own
musings on the author, but it was hidden among
her private things, and she kept her identification
with Lee to herself for decades, and would only
discuss it with scholars or the author’s old friends,
who sometimes returned to the house out of
nostalgia. In fascist Italy and the years of Catholic
conservatism that followed, Vernon Lee was not a
‘family-appropriate’ topic.
8
Books with Lee’s characteristic notes in the
margins were diamond points in Il Palmerino’s
Vernon Lee collection, and, on a personal level,
Lola greatly admired Lee’s efforts. Lee’s garden
and salon were in vogue for decades – from Janet
Ross and Oscar Wilde, from Aldous Huxley to
Virginia Woolf, but not only the ‘intelligentsia’
were guests there. A playbill Lee printed for the
‘Teatro Rustico del Palmerino’ was another cause
for Lola’s admiration; Lee created a makeshift
theatre on the estate, adapting plays to expose the
area’s many illiterate peasant children to cultural
literacy. Lola also noted that Lee was a networker
par excellence, she knew which friends should meet
against which backdrop, and the assistance Lee
provided to Edith Wharton on the writer’s pilgrimage
through Tuscan villa gardens is one famous case
which fuelled Lola’s own garden-love. And Lee’s
lemons – jealously nurtured by Lola and her family
for nearly a century, are alive and well today, in the
garden Lola so often painted en plein air.
Lee’s revived popularity in the last twenty years
and renewed attention among scholars across the
world cannot be studied without acknowledging
Lola’s own interest, as the First international
Conference on Vernon Lee, organised by
Il Palmerino with the British Institute of Florence
and the Gabinetto Vieusseux in 2005 – less than
one year before Lola’s death – represented the
fulfilment of a wish the painter and poet had
harboured for decades. Lola had lived in Lee’s
house for over seventy years, and she knew that
Lee’s legacy would someday bloom and grow far
beyond the estate’s enchanted gardens.”
Lola Costa, 1938
Primroses in
a blue vase
and ball of yarn
Oil on cardboard
40 x 33 cm
A young Lola
in front of her
birth home in
London, c. 1923
Angeli Archive
Linda Falcone, tcq editor
the
curators’
quaderno
Lola Costa, 1979
Little statue with orchids
Tempera on cardboard
46 x 34 cm
10
Lola Costa, 1974
Artichoke flowers and eggs
Oil on cardboard
36 x 46 cm
“She was a brilliant conversationalist and
sociable – more and more friends visited,
with each passing day. This environment
and home of hers, was a far cry from being
sumptuous, despite its considerable size.
It was decidedly country-style, complete
with artichoke plants out front. Yet, it was
here they came – the intellectual crème de
la crème, in Florence at that time.”
Lola Costa on Vernon Lee, 1985
Lola Costa, 1972
Vase with quinces
Oil on cardboard
50 x 35 cm
Lola Costa, 1972
Still life with bird and peaches
Oil on cardboard
50 x 35 cm
the
curators’
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notes
“Lola very strongly believed
that nothing should be wasted.
Everything was to be used,
well-preserved and well-spent,
especially things she considered
Nature’s gifts. She had an
ecological mind-set, even as a
still-life painter. To her, fruit was
not just for eating. Painting was
her way of giving nature more
than one life. It was her way of
sublimating it. She’d pick fruit,
pile it high, and paint it, taking
it from the garden to new life on
canvas – giving it a new identity,
a new kind of beauty. Lola would
block its rotting, eternally, with
paint. And once the colours were
rinsed from her brushes, she
would make marmalade.”
Federica Parretti
14
Lola Costa, 1972
Quinces and rolling pin
Oil on cardboard
36 x 46 cm
the
curators’
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16
Lola in the process
of making one of her
famous marmalades
in Normandy in 1990
Archivio Angeli
Lola Costa, 1942
The lemon keeper
Oil on canvas
60 x 49 cm
the
curators’
quaderno
Lola Costa, 1972
Basket of pomegranates
Oil on board
50 x 35 cm
18
Lola Costa, 1972
Chiari’s farm house
Oil on cardboard
50 x 35 cm
the
curators’
quaderno
notes
“Twenty years have passed since Lola’s
death and it is important to reflect upon
the continuance of her legacy. As for me,
I wish to respect this place, and not betray
it. I wish to keep the presence of those
who came before us alive. Lola’s work,
both paintings and poetry, recount small
moments of everyday beauty. Her writing
is highly sensitive and sometimes spiritual,
but she also includes a note of irony in her
approach to the human condition and all
its contradictions.
Il Palmerino, today, has become a hub for
contemporary artists. In that sense, it is
under constant construction. Lola’s work
and that of Vernon Lee continues to speak
to them – to lend them creativity, because
time does not stand still here; if anything,
it becomes as circular as the seasons.”
20
Federica Parretti
Lola Costa, 1933
Threshing wheat
Tempera on canvas
48 x 59 cm
the
curators’
quaderno
notes
22
Lola Costa, 1941
Dead leaves
Oil on panel
50 x 66 cm
Lola Costa, 1940
Fruit
Oil on canvas
35 x 42 cm
“The mid-1930s to the late 1940s was a very
productive period for Lola. The family’s
move to Il Palmerino was still relatively new,
and Lola’s work alongside husband-painter
Federigo Angeli gave rise to a stimulating
on-canvas conversation. They painted the
same sitters and captured the same still-life
scenes or the flowers that Lola picked, and
though her husband was the professional
painter, theirs was an equal exchange, for her
work had a dynamism that complemented
– and perhaps gave oxygen to – his more
exacting style. Unlike Federigo, Lola felt
no pressure for perfection, which gave her
hand a freedom he seldom experienced. Her
early paintings were not indifferent to the
art movements that ‘upset’ the status quo
in Italy and other parts of Europe, and even
her early still life works – when symbolic – are
grounded in the everyday, as in Dead leaves
and Fruit, where an open newspaper plays
backdrop and its news is almost legible.
She authored the first painting in 1941, at
the height of the Second World War. The
second, painted in the same period, gives
almost ‘cubist flair’ to a heraldic motif with
roots in the Renaissance that Federigo used
frequently in his own mural works.”
Federica Parretti
the
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notes
“I know this copper pot from my
childhood, and it’s still here at
Il Palmerino. Lola always used it to collect
cinders, swept up from the fireplace,
once the fire died. The pomegranates are
not really being cooked, of course. Lola is
constructing a scene here, she’s creating
her composition – with her old orange
varnished coffee pot placed against a
blue background just so. This painting
belongs to her second phase as an artist.
Lola did not paint for twenty years after
Federigo died, from 1952 to the early
seventies. During those two decades,
words became a source of comfort, and
she filled pages, not picture frames.
Her poems were largely musings on the
‘living art’ of her own brand of spirituality.
Then, at the age of 70, she was diagnosed
with cancer, and given three months to
live. And that was when Lola’s daughter
Beatrice handed her a paintbrush. ‘You
must paint again.’ So, Lola began. And
she beat the disease, palette in hand. As
it ended up, there were nearly 30 years of
life left in her, and many paintings to bear
witness to her days.”
24
Federica Parretti
Lola Costa, 1978
Pomegranates
and orange pot
Oil on cardboard
34 x 47 cm
the
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Garden
grammar
notes
26
“One’s garden is a self-portrait,
as Vita Sackville West beautifully
explained in her poem “The Garden”,
and Il Palmerino’s giardino is one with
poetic echoes. It resonates with the
Mensola, which flows nearby, whose
water nymph triumphs in Giovanni
Boccaccio’s Nymphs of Fiesole, and
it keeps the modern world, with all
its aggressive construction and
industrialisation, at bay. Two women
inhabited the same places a few
decades apart: Vernon Lee, in her
famous letter to the Times in 1898,
expressed her fears of the city’s
transformation into a place devoid of
soul, devoid of poetry.
Lola Costa, in a 1960 poem,
denounced the transformation of
Novoli into a concrete jungle, urging
the Mensola and Affrico streams,
to leave places contaminated by
present-day grime behind.
Villa Il Palmerino in the
1930s at the time of
Vernon Lee and today.
The ‘modern-day’ garden
was improved upon and
is maintained by Lola
Costa and Federigo
Angeli’s son Giuliano
Angeli, the house’s
current owner.
Il Palmerino Cultural
Association Archive
This perspective is not far from the
nostalgic and heart-breaking view held by
Micol in The Garden of the Finzi Continis
(1962), in which greenery is a form of
defence that, ultimately, proves inadequate
when it comes to countering the growing
horrors of the ruthless world. Strategies
to protect the memory of beauty often
involve nostalgia for earlier eras, when the
relationship between humans and nature
was not merely centred on exploitation
and predation, rather it was founded upon
respect for the slow cycles of nature,
throughout seasons, which were already
being undermined by ‘progress’ and losing
their absoluteness by the time Il Palmerino’s
its new owner arrived.
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Logistilla, one of the
three fairy-sisters
in Ariosto’s Orlando
Furioso, is known for
her wisdom and virtue.
notes
In the 1930s, in an article for the
journal Pegasus, Mario Praz, a disciple
of Madame Vernon – whom he called
‘Logistilla’ – polemicized the views
of Elio Vittorini, who boasted of the
beauty of the new neighbourhood next
to the Cascine, refusing to see – as
a matter of ideological prejudice –
the beauty of the city centre and its
surrounding hills.
The very same trees, seen in different
eras by different artists acquire
new meaning. Lola Costa paints
corners of the park or single flowers;
she writes poems about trees and
meadows, which similarly convey
imagery attesting to a relationship
with nature as the barycentre of one’s
existence and action, of one’s dreaming
and imaginings, while birdsong
accompanies the flow of thought.”
28
Luca Scarlini
Lola Costa, 1988
Maiano, before
the storm
Oil on canvas
16 x 20 cm
Just like a sunbeam
As brief as a ray of setting sun
After a cloudy day
Red on the branches and trunk of the pine
Red on the twisted branches of the acacia
Red no more, for it was brief
Lola Costa
Like a bird
Like a bird is my mind
like a bird hopping
from branch to branch
now, in that tree
soon, in another.
Trees are refrains of thought
about this and that,
each tree its own.
The mind, a vital instrument
of the soul’s encasing
tunic-like, sometimes unworthy,
while the soul waits
its being known,
and adored.
Lola Costa
Lola Costa, 1940
View of Il Palmerino’s field
Oil on hardboard
43 x 69 cm
“They are all beautiful, these Gardens of
Poetry! And through the midst of them
flows the broad stream of Memory
isled with fair lilied lawns, fringed with
willowy forests and whispering reeds.
And not less beautiful than these ideal
shades are the gardens which live
unchanged and unchanging in many a
painted picture within the heart. Real
and not less ideal, is the remembrance
of gardens we have seen: seen once, it
may be, and never since forgotten.”
Vernon Lee
the
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Front and back cover: Lola Costa, 1955,
The garden of Villa Il Palmerino, oil on canvas, 66 x 85 cm
Photographs of Lola Costa’s artworks:
Marco Berni and Viola Parretti
photo credits
p. 1: Il Palmerino’s garden today, Angeli Archive
pp. 2-3: Villa Il Palmerino and a view of Fiesole in the early 1900s,
Il Palmerino Cultural Association Archives
p. 5: Vernon Lee in front of her home at Il Palmerino 1910 circa,
Colby University, Maine
p. 5: Lola Costa in Via San Domenico 1932 circa, Archivio Costa Angeli
p. 7: Portrait of Vernon Lee by John Singer Sargent, 1889,
originally published in The Studio, 1900
p. 20: The installation of a stone plaque dedicated to Vernon Lee,
in the winter of 1936, Angeli Archive
We extend heartfelt thanks to
Calliope Arts Foundation, Associazione Culturale Il Palmerino,
The British Institute of Florence, Associazione Le Curandaie,
CentroDi edizioni, Colby University Vernon Lee Archive
Margie MacKinnon, Wayne McArdle, Giuliano Angeli,
Heidi Kruse Angeli, Isabella Angeli, Valeria Angeli Flaccomio,
Oliviero Angeli, Marco Badiani, Giacomo Badiani, Marco Berni,
Sara Bini, Giulia Bartolozzi, Marina Berlinger, Leo Cardini,
Alessandra Cavallini, Serena Cenni, Cristina Acidini,
Marilena Mosco, Mara Miniati, Ugo Bargagli, Giovanna Giusti,
Francesca Baldry, Giuseppe Delle Rose, Guillemette,
Denis Marzotto, Jinny Deppen, Madalyn Dolney,
Silvia Farolfi, Monica Maria Francini, Helen Farrell,
Simon Gammell, Giovanni Giusti, Maurizio Naldini,
Lorenzo Parretti, Pamela Quinto, Luca Scarlini, Ivy St Clair,
Gabrielle Von Shonau-Wehr Brini, Viola Parretti,
Stefano Vincieri and Federica Parretti
32
Linda Falcone
tcq editor
A continued
commitment
to Florence
“A Florentine Garden:
Early Women Ex-Pats
and Artists of Today”
is a 3-year project
(2024-2026), that will
explore gardens as
a fundamental part
of women’s cultural
endeavours in Italy and
England, from the turn
of the last century to
today. This issue of
The Curators’ Quaderno
series accompanies
the exhibition “Return
Home, Lola Costa
at Il Palmerino”, at Il
Palmerino Cultural
Association, the
project’s initial event.
Calliope Arts Foundation strives to further
public knowledge of female contributions
to the visual arts, literature, science, music
and social history in Florence, London and
the world. Co-founded in 2021 by Margie
MacKinnon and Wayne McArdle, it provides
support for restorations, exhibitions
and education, as well as curating and
underwriting broadcasts and publications
such as The Curators’ Quaderno and
Restoration Conversations magazine.
Il Palmerino Cultural Association was
established on July 25, 2008 to honour
and uphold the cultural heritage of this
historic estate, which dates back to the
15th century. From its early origins during
the rise of the Medici family to the present
day, this venerable place has been home to
artists and thinkers of all kinds, including
British writer and intellectual Vernon Lee
and painter Lola Costa. Lola’s grandchildren
continue to develop Il Palmerino as a vital
centre of cross-cultural and interdisciplinary
pursuits, by providing a showcase for
emerging artists, musicians and writers
through exhibitions and cultural events.
This project is created in conjunction with
the British Institute of Florence, which has
offered the city’s international residents
and visitors educational, cultural and social
opportunities for more than 100 years.
“Those are our gardens
of past joy. Yet others
still exist, whose
memory in secret
cherished is shrouded
with a tender mystery.”
Vernon Lee
euro 2.00